There will come a day when we will be on the beach of Paradise in Kythera Some of the locals will welcome us some will say ‘the wild ones have come to chase away the tame ones’.
The young talented singer Nefeli Fasouli gave an amazing musical performance under the light of the Full Moon in the idyllic Avlemonas at the beginning of July. With a view of the «beach of paradise in Kythera», condensed the magic of the island and lifted the audience with this tender piece composed, lyrics and music by Phoebus Delivoria.
Kythera offers many alternatives and options
«We will never find Kythera» says the song of Katsaros.
And some Europeans did believe for years that the island didn't exist. That it was a utopia.
The symbolic Kythera is indeed a promise of happiness and connection with the sweetness of life. And for the lyricist, as for many artists, it is the lost paradise, the symbol of a utopian quest. But zathea (sacred) Kythera, birthplace of the most beautiful goddess, exists precisely because it is mythical! And it is worth visiting them at least once.
Despite its small size, Kythera offers a plethora of excellent options.
Many fantastic beaches, picturesque villages, stone-built bridges, unexpected waterfalls, deep gorges, hidden lakes and much more. There are scattered Venetian castles and Byzantine monuments, but also architectural elements that remind both Mani and Crete.
The misty hiking trails with abandoned medieval ruins swaying in the winds reveal the true essence of Kythera to travellers seeking the authenticity of the island and who, when they find it, become its captives.
It is a place worth discovering in all seasons of the year.
Whenever you go you will soon realize that the trip to this special island was not a coincidence!!! And those who truly love Kythera, are not deterred by the weather even in the face of the long journey. And the same landscape changes dramatically from one season to the next.
From the colourful spring that paints the soft hills with myriad colours to the autumns of the daily «katsifara» or «proventza», the local weather, with fog and humidity. So called because it blows from the west, where Provence (Provincia) is.
And from the wonderful summer images on the sapphire or reddish beaches to the wild beauty of winter with the many winds blowing the island.
And then there is the incredible metaphysical light that makes everything sparkle and pulsate, emanating an almost therapeutic warmth.
And that aura, which gives off all those things, animate and inanimate, that we often so casually take for granted ... a butterfly, a grasshopper in your yard, a dry stone, a vine, a flowering thyme.
The Magic Villages of Kythera
I have been to many islands in Greece and abroad, but I am still fascinated by the villages of my island, the almost untouched inland and the lacy coastline.
From the simple farmhouses in small villages, to the modest nobility of a semi-rural life that the houses in the main villages exude. Villages that indicate a refined everyday life of people who - with a few exceptions - respect their land.
THE EXOTIC HOLIDAY
Approaching by boat to Diakofti, the main port of the island with its beautiful turquoise waters reminiscent of the Caribbean, you will be positively surprised.
The beach is one of the most beautiful on the island. On the left of the beach, literally on the beach, Michalis Taverna has excellent food. The cargo ship «Nordland» - now a tourist attraction - which in 2000 ran aground on the island of Prasonisi, outside the port, because the crew, as we learned, had been drinking! Semi-submerged since then, at a depth of about 30 meters, with its bow out of the sea (which is sinking every year), it is an excellent fishing spot and... fully instagrammable.
THE NOBLE COUNTRY AND THE COSMIC SCANDAL
One of the first things you will do in Kythera is to explore the town and its port of Kapsali.
The capital of our island is built on a hill in the south, on top of which a Venetian castle with a fantastic view of Kapsali dominates. The castle of Chora or «Fortetsa» was built around the 13th century by the Venetians. It was called the «eye of Crete», as due to its strategic position it could observe the Ionian, the Aegean and the Cretan Sea. In the castle you will feel like you are in another era. Just below the Castle are the temples of Mesa Vourgo, built by the Venetians in the 16th century. They open to the public sometime in August and you will be lucky to be given a tour by Mrs. Eleni Harou, «custodian» of monuments and traditions on the island.
The cultural heritage of Kythera is rich. The Historical Archive of Kythera, located in the Castle of the capital, is the second most important after Corfu, since it keeps records from the 16th century. Also worth visiting is the Archaeological Museum, where you can tour 5000 years of history in its radically renovated halls. Here you will also see the statue of the Lion of Kythera.
The atmosphere in the country is sensual, with its white mansions, colourful alleys and fragrant courtyards creating a magical setting, a gift for all the senses. Don't forget to go up to Toni's terrace for authentic Italian pizza with a view of the Castle and go for a drink at Choraki or Mercato. The classic Bengera in the square for coffee and light snacks.
New arrival and Zourida with its wonderful stuffed and dolmades and its imaginative pie bowls. And of course ice cream and crepes at Bon Bon. I, for one, love Fossa. A small and beautiful courtyard with great breakfasts, hearty homemade pastries and the best banoffee I've ever had. And for shopping, Marie at Sochora and Stella at DaPonte will make you a goddess.
The winding road from Chora to Kapsali is one of the most beautiful routes on the island and the legendary Cuckoo bar (what memories I have, my God) on the road is simply amazing.
Kapsali is a beautiful fishing village with its sandy beach, its galleries, its theatre in Zidoro, its restaurants, bars and cafes. I really like Kappari with its snacks (try ceviche sea bass and baby squid) and Chrysopsaro with its unique aesthetics and fantastic rhubarb. But there are also solid values such as the Magos fish tavern near the harbour. And the legendary bars Fox Anglais and Banda Landra are full of memories of my own that might become yours.
THE LIVING RIVER AND THE TOURIST HOLY PELAGIA
The largest village of Kythera is Potamos, the main village in the north of the island, and its port of Agia Pelagia is the most tourist resort.
Potamos is one of the largest commercial centres of the island, while maintaining its picturesque character with the Venetian garrison and the neoclassical building of the Neptionary.
It is the headquarters of the famous «multi-ethnic» Philharmonic Orchestra (with members from many countries living permanently on the island). The sounds of its rehearsals often reach the square and it entertains us on celebrations and at the first light.
You can go down in winter and go all over the island, not see a person anywhere, but once you enter Potamos square, the scene is different. Because River Square never shuts up. There's always someone drinking coffee or ouzo and enjoying their tidbits. It's a lovely square with beautiful cafes, and the legendary Tavern of Panaretos for wild goat and other traditional dishes. Don't miss the delicious pastries and Maria's Sunday spanakopita at the Potamos café in the square. You will also find beautiful sweets and special items at Archondo at the entrance of the village.
The classic café-bar Astikon has been a meeting place and a place of information on the island for over a century. In fact, it has hosted historical moments and state secrets since Eleftherios Venizelos visited it in 1911. Today it is often visited by music bands and with its music and drinks - it is for many the best hangout on the island from morning to night.
In the village there are traditional houses with architectural influences from the Peloponnese, as well as several neoclassical houses. Every Sunday for 700 years the famous bazaar with local products is held continuously.
A beautiful route among cool pine trees will lead you to the northeastern part of Kythera where my village Agia Pelagia is located. The area currently has the most beds on the island. It was the old port and has found new life after its transfer to Diakofti.
With a picturesque little church, 7 wonderful beaches, one after the other that end in the sensational Kakia Lagada, and picturesque tavernas on the beach that often have live music.
I love Kaleris, he is a constant for me, my family and friends. The shop has now been taken over by the owner's son Antonis, Chef Giannis, with his delicious sockeye and stuffed pumpkin squashes that melt in your mouth. Thea Thalassa right next door has excellent of the hour and crispy pizza. For dessert classics in Semreviwa. Try the Chirigot ice cream with honey and walnuts.
THE COOL MILL RIVER
Mylopotamos is another beautiful medieval village that takes you back in time.
It is really worth spending a day to explore this magical place.The traditional café with its beautiful flowers and tables under the plane trees, the small churches, the running water, the swans and the ducks, offer a sense of old-fashioned euphoria.
Kamari, where the largest washes of the island are located and the waterfall Fonissa a little further out of the village, in the area of Neraida -another highly photographed spot- complete the dreamy scenery. Kalliopi's food at Platanos is excellent. Don't miss the rabbit stew and the galaktoboureko. And in the evening the little bar in the lagadia has nice music.
From Mylopotamos there are many paths that lead to caves, monuments, beaches and other hidden corners of the island! Kato Chora - the old Venetian settlement just below - will fascinate you. A settlement ruined but so lively, you think residents will pop up one day.
The abandoned castle town, built in 1565, includes, among other things, a Gothic English School and Byzantine churches, with some of their frescoes surviving in good condition. And the views are wonderful, especially at sunset, which you can admire lying on the lovely slabs on the church roofs!
The adventure continues for the adventurous at the watermills and a series of successive waterfalls and ponds outside the village.
Follow the marked path that starts from the central square of the settlement, explore the enchanting nature and take a journey into the past of Kythera. The trail will enchant you and if you can bear the walk it will take you to the sea at Kalami beach.
Ask also in the village for the small monastery of Panagia Orphani, perched on a rock. If you have time, go down to Limniona for a swim (the road is a bit steep, but worth it) and visit the cave of Agia Sophia with the church built among stalactites and stalagmites (but make sure it is open first),
THE FASCINATING UNFORESEEN
Another absolute must in Kythera is Avlemonas (Avlemonas or Avlaimonas).
You will find it written in many ways on signs on the island or in books. There are two versions of its name. From ablemmon ( where the gaze does not reach, i.e. a bottomless) or a paraphrase of eulimenos (good harbour). The old port of Agios Nikolaos today is a quiet fishing village, famous for its barbounaki.
For many, the most picturesque seaside village of Kythera is built between two small and calm bays that resemble fjords. Its natural environment and architecture is strongly reminiscent of the Cyclades. And the fishermen's boats, the small church and the magnificent mansion Kavalini with its sundial complete a uniquely picturesque setting. On the calm beaches formed by the bays of the village, reminiscent of a swimming pool, you will enjoy swimming and diving when the winds are raging on the rest of the island.
Around 1328 a Catalan merchant ship loaded with slaves and silk bound for Cyprus was forced to dock at Kythera due to a storm. It ran aground at Avlemonas and the crew came ashore armed and attacked the inhabitants. They stole livestock, food, looted villages and killed a local man. The Kytherians were terrified and asked for help from the Venetian castellan, who was indifferent. Eventually the situation was taken in hand by an Orthodox priest around whom the unprotected citizens rallied. He rallied them and with a cry of «Up with them!» he urged them to pursue the Catalans and throw them into the sea. Which they did.
The ship Mentor, in which Lord Elgin was transporting the Parthenon marbles, was also wrecked in September 1802 just off the Sea of Ablemona. Thus for a time the marbles were at the bottom of the Sea of Kythera until they were recovered by divers from Malta.
The newly arrived Psomoladea (don't miss the ceviche, the shrimp, the risotto and the salad with salt).
For a drink and relaxed music I recommend the bar Arachtopoleion in the harbour. Also the cuisine of Evanthia in the classic Skandia in the nearby beach of Paleopolis is a classic value with its pumpkin meatballs, its melitzano salad and crispy barbounaki avlemoniotiko.
THE SOUP BOAT AND THE AMMOS SQUARE
Karavas, in the north, is a green village full of springs built on a ravine.
The architecture of my mother's and my husband's home village with its many neighbourhoods is very special, while the active local association «Portokalia» organises film screenings and other cultural activities throughout the summer.
The whole area is ideal for walking, as it is full of plane trees and running water in spring and autumn. The Amir Ali Springs are also located here in the ravine. There are several legendary stories around the name of the springs . Most of them are about a Turk during the Ottoman period who was chasing the girls of the area and was killed by a young resident of Kythera at this place. .
From here start several walking routes, one of them through the valley to the port of Karavas, Ammo Square (a name and a name with its wonderful sandy beach). A quiet fishing village that is also the northernmost village of the island.
Also a dirt road that starts above the springs of Amir Ali will lead you to Cape Spathi, where you can see one of the largest lighthouses of the Greek seas, the lighthouse of Moudari, 25 meters high. There is usually a lighthouse keeper who may allow you to enter its impressive interior. This point - a place of outstanding beauty - allows you, in good weather, to see the entire Laconian Gulf, from Cape Malea to Cape Taenaro.
In the epic of Karavas from Agia Pelagia is also the famous Oven of Karava with the well-known oil-based pasta - and not only -, while Georgia in the Lemon Garden makes wonderful stews, the best fish soup and fantastic pumpkin sticks from her boston.
The gorge that starts from the quiet gorge of the village ends at the village. Crane. The village has many springs with cool water and an impressive forest that is the main lung of the island and that around Easter is filled with the famous red tulip Golimi, a protected species.
THE BUSH AND THE CANOE
Livadi is a central village in the south of Kythera, around which there are many beautiful small settlements.
Because it connects many areas, and is located on the main road of the island, it is a meeting point for the residents of the southern regions and not only. Together with Potamos it is one of the villages where you will find people even outside the summer season. It has several shops, cafes, restaurants and other services. I really love Piero and his stews. He stays open all year round and offers old-fashioned dishes like grandma's, while Toxotis has the best roasts on the island
In Kato Livadi is the famous stone bridge of Kantouniou, It is the largest in Greece, with 110 m length, supported with mastery on 13 arches with absolute symmetry. It was built by the English in 1826 through the efforts of the locals. Legend has it that the English Commander fell madly in love with a beautiful Tsirigotissa and decided to build the bridge near her house. And every day he went to supervise the work so he could see her. Love, you see, pulls the strings on the island.
OTHER VILLAGES OF KYTHERA
But there are many other authentic and atmospheric villages on the island, which I recommend you visit if you have time (or the next time you come).
Fratsia with its many neighborhoods, the famous exhibition and the folk festival in August is one of the oldest villages of Kythera. According to the linguist Manolis Stathis, the origin of the word is from the word fratia ( fria = the well). This is very likely since Fratsias has dozens of wells in the estates of the area. In the square of the village in a beautiful old house is the famous FAMILIA , one of the best restaurants on the island. The special creations of the Cretan chef Yannis Voulgarakis, who settled permanently on our island, raised the gastronomic bar. Don't miss the creamy dolmades, the garlicky fried potatoes and the sautéed greens with fresh tomatoes, although all his dishes are special.
A beautiful traditional village that reminds of Mani and has been declared an architecturally protected settlement is Aroniadika, just outside Potamos. Walk through its alleys with respectfully restored houses in ochre colours and drink coffee with excellent cheese pie at the village café on the street.
Another extremely picturesque village is Mitata, right in the heart of the island, with a wonderful view of the gorge and Paleopolis and for many people the place with the best festival on the island. Michalis' café-taverna in the square next to the church, damaged by the last earthquake, is a must. Try the rooster with wine and local sausages.
Just opposite Mitata (separated by the Tsakonas Gorge) is the sparsely populated village of Viaradika, with a natural source of drinking water and plenty of greenery. The gorge that separates the two villages is an excellent area for hiking and there are via ferrata routes.
- Another picturesque little village is Kalokairines in the West just before the monastery of Myrtidiotissa, with its special houses and the Mill of Maria for delicious dry cakes, kourabies, rosettes and other traditional sweets.
- I also love the Pitsinianica, where you can integrate with the locals. At the Kafeneion of Halikokos you'll order a tidy Greek coffee and if you're hungry, Francesca and Romylos will make you some meatballs mourlia.
- Logothetianika on the way to the impressive western beach of Lykodimou is very beautiful with the traditional tavern Karydes waiting for you in a beautiful courtyard. Also Friligianika with the Red Spaletto , where there is a feast with live music outside the church in July-August.
Kalamos is a large village in the south of Kythera, just after Livadi. It is famous for three beautiful beaches on the island. Phyri Ammos, Halkos and Vroulea. In Kalamos you will also find the famous tavern of Filio, which is combined after a swim in the beaches.
Beaches for all tastes
A holiday in Kythera is not possible without exploring the beaches of the island.
There are organized beaches and deserted beaches. With fine white sand and turquoise waters, but also with purple pebbles or white round pebbles. But with crystal clear waters everywhere. The installation of three new infrastructures in Ag. Pelagia, Diakofti and Paleopolis was completed to ensure accessibility to the sea for people with disabilities or limited mobility. The three new infrastructures are added to the existing one (since 2015) in Kapsali,
We start with one of the most beautiful and most popular beaches of Kythera
- Reed, like a postcard
Perhaps the most famous and most photographed. It is a pebbly eastern beach, with clear, green-blue waters. It is divided into three sections. The first two are separated by a huge rock - a trademark - and the third is a small, open cave that leads to another tiny beach.
To get there you will have to descend about 150 stone steps. But it's worth it if there's no north wind.
On the right side of the beach, just 10 minutes swimming (or less if you are with a mattress or SUP) you will find the neighbouring Vlychada, another eastern beach of Kythera that is worth discovering.
- Chytra, the mythical
You couldn't leave Kythera without a boat trip with Captain Spyros to the imposing rocky islet of Chytra. Ideally in the afternoon and when there are no westerly winds blowing. Your experience will start with a swim in turquoise waters and continue with a tour of the imposing cave to the south of the islet and a swim in areas with different temperatures.
Swallow, the magic
It is a lovely cove in the south with a view of Chytra, with fine red gravel, crystal clear sea and two hammocks on the rocks. Legend has it that this is where Polyphemus' cave is located, and Chytra is one of the stones he threw to Odysseus and his companions when they blinded him and ran away.
Because of its location, it is not particularly affected by the wind. It has the best organized beach of the island with a canteen and water sports. Rea, an archaeologist and a great professional, is the mistress of the beach. She waits for you with a nut and if she has time she can tell you stories about pirates and treasures ( one has not been found yet).
Paleopolis, the cradle of Aphrodite
The beach where the Homeric Skandia, birthplace of Aphrodite, is located is the largest beach of the island and in a small part of it is organized. It is one of the richest areas in archaeological finds. It is located in the east between Avlemonas and Kaladi. With sand and in some places pebbles and with a natural scent from the thyme that is found in abundance in the area! And if you search you might find heart-shaped pebbles like the ones left in her wake by the beautiful Helen. They never «dry up», as the goddess Aphrodite still throws them onto the beach from her throne. The one that stands high on a rock next to the Mycenaean tombs carved into the soft sandstone behind the beach.
And if you like surprises, at the right end of the beach, you will find a huge rock in the water with a small opening. Swim in and you'll reach the wonderful beach of Limni!
Lykodimou, the wild beauty
This western beach with its impressive cliffs like a cinematic backdrop, has fine pebbles and an unexpected small sandy beach in the small harbour.
There are also several caves that resemble a lunar landscape for those lucky enough to arrive early and find a vacant space to sit under the natural shade. But what's really worth it is to sit until sunset for a dreamy sunset. And when you return cut a sprig of the fragrant sage that is abundant in the area to drink or burn to cleanse your space of negative energies. .
Saint Pelagia the Multifaceted
With one beach after another, Agia Pelagia in the North East offers options for all tastes. I spent all my summers there and I know every single stone.
The central beach is sandy and organized with crystal clear shallow waters, Neos Kosmos with wild beauty, Fyri Ammos with its impressive red sand, the hidden Kalamitsi with the chapel of Agios Nikolaos, the beautiful bay of Lorentzos with its caves and small hidden beaches.
And at the end the magnificent Lagada that reaches the lake in the Marbarossa gorge. When it is not windy, you will enjoy a sensational swim. In fact, beach parties are organized in the evenings, especially popular with the youth of Kythera.
Phyri Ammos (Kalamos), the red one
It has been awarded, rightly so, with the “Golden Star” for its natural beauty and the purity of its waters. Particularly well known, with fine multicoloured pebbles in all shades of red. Organized with umbrellas and canteen.
Copper the pebbled copper
Emerald green waters, smooth pebbles, beautiful music and all the amenities you might need at this sheltered from the winds southern beach near Kalamos. It also has some lovely rocks in the sea from where first we and then our children learned to dive.
Ovens, the «boho» alternative
An alternative pebbled organized beach on the northeast coast, perhaps the most boho beach of Kythera. Featuring the beautiful Good Old Days canteen with subtle music, amazing souvlaki, amazing wetlands and a hammock that lulls you to sleep in a sea cave.
Diakofti, the exotic
For many the most exotic with fine white sand shallow, emerald waters and 2 shipwrecks for decor. Protected from strong winds .Organized at the 2 ends leaves enough room for your umbrellas in the middle ( if you don't catch the shade in the tamarisk trees).
Capsule, the cosmic
Sandy organized beach with turquoise waters protected from the winds. With a wonderful view of the Castle of Chora and many cafes and taverns. Opposite the pebbled Sparagario below the Castle.
If you are looking for tranquility, Ammos Square, to the North, and Limnionas and Kalami to the West are waiting for you. For Kalami you will need to descend and ascend by rope, while Limnionas is where the trail to the famous Green Lake begins.
The third and final part of the trilogy will be dedicated to the people - permanent and not - who are part of my life and some special sights of the island. Stay tuned in...
P.S. Thanks for some of the wonderful photos I borrowed from cousin Kostas Koroneos , friend Demi Kalfa and Isabelle Cleau. If I have forgotten someone or someone please forgive me..
