One of the sectors of the national economy that has proven resilient during the difficult years of the crisis is the wine industry. At least that is what it seems, judging by the emergence of hundreds of small producers throughout the country, along the many roads —from one end to the other—of the Greek vineyard, who have chosen to enter the now highly competitive wine market with products crafted with great care and meeting strict standards.
Nikos Christopoulos comes from a family of winegrowers in Dafnes, Aegialia, and is one of those small producers who loves the vineyards he inherited in the region. After 10 consecutive harvests, his production remains modest, not exceeding five thousand bottles, with two labels that nevertheless seem to confirm the paraphrase of the aulist Kafisia’s saying, «Goodness does not lie in abundance.».
«The most iconic wine-producing countries did not make their name thanks to the big wine-making giants,» Nikos Christopoulos tells APE-MPE. «They were supported by small producers with high-quality products—PDO products that adhere to strict rules and standards.».
Our interviewee wanted to break with the tradition of the region, where Roditis and white varieties dominate, and decided to invest in red varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Today, his wines are featured in wine cellars and wine bar menus alongside other well-established, well-known labels that have been in the industry for years, and demand for them exceeds production. But can he increase his production, and what can the government do to support the small vineyards that dominate the slopes of Aegialia?;
We decided to document the «wine story» of Nikos Christopoulos, a small-scale but passionate winemaker, through a television road trip that takes us from the slopes of Aegialia, as well as to Nafplio, where he sells his products and where he lives.
«The Vineyard Teaches Me»
We’re heading to Voriomana, one of the slopes of Aegialia, across from Mount Panachaiko. The other vineyard-covered slopes in the wider region are located on the northern slopes of Mounts Klokos and Chelmos in Achaea. These wine-growing regions of Aegialia are cooled by the breezes from the Gulf of Corinth. The mild climate is also responsible for the presence of ravines, and the soils vary from white limestone—a prerequisite for good wine. We capture the region with a drone, which confirms that the area is not unfairly compared to Tuscany. The slopes and villages of Aegialia, through which Nikos Christopoulos is guiding us, remain largely unknown, however. Olive groves and vineyards alternate with Natura protected areas, rivers, and gorges. Corinthian raisins, olive oil, and wine are the main products produced here.
«When I go to the vineyard, I’m close to my product. The vineyard teaches me,» the winemaker tells APE-MPE. «Seeing such a product come from these steep slopes and stumps, you realize just how small you are in the face of nature.».
Incentives are needed
Today, the Greek wine industry faces serious structural problems. The first is the small size of the plots. The vast majority of vineyard plots do not exceed one to two stremmata. And these plots of land cannot generate a sufficient income. As a result, this prevents the emergence of a sufficient number of professional winegrowers.
«It’s also a matter of education. We need more winegrowers, not oenologists,» Christopoulos emphasizes, adding that protecting vineyards is an urgent priority. Small producers would like the government to implement support measures and provide incentives such as «reducing costs through tax cuts,» while, as N. Christopoulos tells us, it is «difficult for anyone to qualify under the development law or receive a subsidy.».
And he emphasizes: «A winegrower needs to produce wine, but he also needs to be able to support himself and his family. Because when we have a vineyard at 800 meters, and it produces a small quantity but these vines will showcase the region, they must also be viable in terms of production. That way, every winemaker can pay a little more for a quality product. And not the same as those at 300 meters or 1,000 meters above sea level. Perhaps the government could subsidize vineyards that have much lower yields at higher altitudes.»
«Everything I’ve done has been with my own funds,» emphasizes the winemaker, who has also planted a third variety, Mavrodaphne, though it won’t yield results for another two years.
We’ll follow Nikos Christopoulos to Nafplio, where a well-known wine bar supports him by purchasing a large portion of his production. There, he offers two labels: «Voriamana» (from the hillside) and «GILMA,» which are the initials of his wife and two children.
The small producer's vision is to establish his own winery and expand beyond the Peloponnese into the Athens market.
George Kouvaras
