Before I begin this article, I’d like to tell you that right now, the thriller series «Seventeen threads», based on the book by Panos Dimakis, with a screenplay by Mirella Papaikonomou, who collaborated with Katia Kissonergi. It was directed by the renowned Sotiris Tsafoulias and starred Panos Vlachos.
I'm lucky enough to be friends with Mirella Papaikonomou and to have stayed at theher lovely home on Kythira with its breathtaking views and authentic atmosphere. As for the hospitality… words can’t describe it! So I decided to ask her to share with OW readers her perspective on this very special island, to recommend places worth visiting, and to give us tips on how to enjoy it to the fullest.
– Mirella, how did you come to know Kythira?;
Many years ago, a friend and I decided to go to Kythira, because it was a place we had never visited before. So we boarded a ferry that arrived at the port in Agia Pelagia back then—not Diakofti, where it goes now. It was 2 a.m., pitch black, and even though we’d booked a hotel, there wasn’t a soul around to ask where we could stay. So we ended up sleeping in the car.
The next morning we went to the hotel. Everything was fine, but unfortunately, a boat passed by—I don't know what kind of waste it left behind—and the beach was covered in tar.
We had gone for a three-day trip, and on the last day we decided to visit the southern part of the island. We made it all the way to Kastro, and I was very impressed by the whole area. But we only had two hours before our return ferry, so we had to head back. What stuck with me, though, was the desire to return. So at the first opportunity—a TV series I was writing, *Don’t Be Afraid of Fire*—I set the story there. The reason was simply so that I could go back to Kythira. During filming, I fell in love with them. I felt a deep connection with them, and I thought about finding a plot of land in the south and building a house there.
– Where do you live?;
It’s on a hill, 2 kilometers away from Chora and the Castle. The village is called Strapodi. There are no other houses near me, and there’s complete silence.
– Why did you come to love this island so much?;
First of all, I should mention that I’ve been to many islands, and I used to have a house on Spetses, which I also love. But what I feel about Kythira—the urge to go there no matter the season, whether it’s hot or cold—is irreplaceable. I’ll say it again: I’m in love with Kythira, and what I’m describing certainly doesn’t mean that others have to feel the same way. But I can’t help myself anymore.
This island is diverse. Its southern part is reminiscent of the Cyclades, and its northern part, of Mani. It has a rich history, and the people who live there—whether they’re locals or have decided to move there—are truly special. As for tourists, there are some who come and fall in love with Kythira, and there are others who don’t like it at all—there’s no middle ground.
Whenever I’m there, though, it gives me a breath of fresh air. I remember my mother, whom I lost many years ago, telling me, «I miss you so much, my Mirella, since you’re so far away, but Every time you come back from Kythira, it's as if you've been reborn. ’. You're a different person, and I feel that my child is happy there, which is why I don't mind being apart from you.».
I like Kythira even in the winter because it’s not like some other islands where there’s nothing to do. There’s music, dancing, exercise, and two or three amateur theater troupes—the island doesn’t «shut down» just because the summer tourists leave. Another important thing is that I’ve made some very dear friends there. Besides, I’m about to celebrate 30 years in this place—it’s my home. I’ve also planted a garden, and the trees, plants, and flowers have grown quite a bit. I have two dogs, too, who stay there year-round and are looked after by people I trust when I’m away.
– What would you say characterizes the people who live on Kythira?;
First of all, Kythira is an island that hasn’t been «ruined.» The people there are very hospitable without being pushy—they’re not the type who want to «milk» tourists. They’re sophisticated, well-read, and educated; they have their own concerns; their children take music lessons, do ballet, and practice yoga… Also, the people who have chosen the island as their home even though they’re not from there are intellectuals, artists, writers, and poets.
– I think that if someone is looking for easy, flashy tourism, they won’t go to Kythira.
Yes, that's right. I can go out one evening and head to Kapsali without having to dress up or put on makeup, because the person who will welcome me is a friend and has accepted me just as I am. This island has retained its authenticity.
– Do you remember going through a particularly harsh winter there?;
Over the years, I’ve experienced a snowy winter in Kythira just once. It had snowed, and everything was pure white and absolutely beautiful. An image comes to mind, where My dogs would open their mouths and eat snow! Winters in Kythira can be harsh at times, but I never feel unsafe. Besides, I haven’t built a summer house there—it has a fireplace, central heating, and I lay out rugs; it’s a home for winter, too. I really love winter in Kythira, because often, when I’m tired of the hustle and bustle and need to be alone for a while, this place feels like it’s calling me.
– I imagine you must have had quite a few parties there.
Yes, indeed, plenty. Do you want a party with guitars and singers? Do you want food of any kind? You’ll find it all in Kythira. In fact, in all these places, aside from the high quality, the people who run them play a huge role. You always feel welcome, without ever feeling like they’re chasing tourists with a rifle.
– What are your favorite beaches?;
Kythira has some really beautiful beaches, none of which are alike. My favorite in the north—which has neither umbrellas nor lounge chairs—is the San Lorenzo – It’s small, with a wonderful sandy beach and a view of the Peloponnese! That’s where I go when a southerly or westerly wind is blowing.
Of all the beaches on Kythira, though, I love the Vegetable Sand, on the eastern side of the island. It has fine purple pebbles—hence its name—and is vast, with wonderfully clear waters and caves at one end.
When the north wind blows, I love the majestic Copper, surrounded by high cliffs, and the Melidoni, a very beautiful sandy beach.
When I’m lucky enough to have friends visit with an inflatable boat, I love to go around the island, which has endless beautiful beaches that aren’t accessible by car. My favorite is Kyriakoulou.
What's really worth it is to take a A ride on Captain Spyros's «Glass Bottom», with our first stop being a dip in the Kyriakoulou and then to the Pot, the little island across from Kapsali, with a fantastic cave featuring stalactites and crystal-clear waters.
I'm saving that for last Kapsali. Its beach is every bit as good as any other and is ideal if you want to combine swimming, a game of backgammon with friends, and wonderful food at the 5–6 taverns located there. It’s the perfect beach for laid-back friends who don’t feel like traveling to distant beaches and want everything right at their fingertips, or for families with children.
– Where can you find the most beautiful view of Kythira?;
My house overlooks the imposing castle in Chora and the little island of Chytra, which got its name because a little cloud often hovers over it, making it look like a pressure cooker! I haven't gotten enough of this view in 30 whole years. I sit on my porch at dusk, gazing at the majestic view and recharging my batteries. At night, the scene changes, and the horizon is lit up by the lights of the Castle. I feel so lucky!
Mirrella Papaikonomou's recommendations for walks, food, and drinks
The island has 64 villages, but not all of them are inhabited. In the main village, the River, every Sunday there is a market where the island’s residents sell their wares. It’s worth a visit. In Potamos, there is also the «Urban», a traditional, very charming café that often hosts live performances by local and international artists.
In the village Frigianica it is the «Red Spaleto», a restaurant with live music year-round, owned by George and Iliana, who, in addition to being an excellent cook, is also a wonderful singer.
In Chora, three very nice bars are popular with young people—and not just them: the «Choraki», the «Mercato» and the «Cuckoo». In Kapsali, the «Fox», with the wonderful DJ Aris, late at night in the summer, he switches to folk music.
In Avelona (the most beautiful village on the island, in my opinion) is «Grocery» by Stavros Kyriakakis – a beloved destination. Breathtaking scenery, wonderful music, exceptional cocktails, and Stavros’s mother’s incredible orange cake—and chocolate cake.
The Banda Ladra A lovely spot for drinks, toast, and meze, owned by my dear friend Antonis Daponte, where he often performs live in the summer.
In «Goldfish», run by our heroic Dimitris (who keeps the shop open all winter for the locals, when the rest of Kapsali is deserted), you’ll eat club sandwiches, pizzas, pasta dishes, and omelets, all made by his own hands.
I don't want to single out one or two restaurants, because each of the ones I'm going to mention has its own unique character. The «Familia», in the Fratsias, is the chicest spot, with a wonderful atmosphere and an even better, «sophisticated» menu, curated by my dear friend Yiannis.
In the village Meadow, the «Sagittarius», with excellent food every time (I've been going there for 30 years and the quality hasn't changed), and the «Piero», a restaurant that never disappoints. Authentic Greek food and a charming owner.
In Country, the best pizza on the island is at «Tony’s Pizza».
In Avelona, an excellent restaurant, «Breadwinner» and «Harbour».
In Saint Pelagia, the «Kaleris»right on the water with wonderful, «trendy» food and the «Platanus»a restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine in Mylopotamos Square, under the plane trees.".
Another one of my favorite restaurants is «Scandals» in the village of the same name, near Avlemonas. It has a lovely courtyard, excellent food, fresh fish, and wonderful owners: Antonis, Evanthia, and Stefanos.
In Kapsali, there are plenty of options right on the beach. The legendary «Wizard»with exceptional fresh fish of the day and exceptional tsipouro. The «Trattamento» and the «Alatarea», fish taverns, and more. The «Capers», serving Mediterranean cuisine.
In the village Pizzinian «It opened a few years ago"The Café at Halikokou's», a tavern worth visiting not only for its very reasonably priced food but also for its unique atmosphere.
In the village Mitata, the «Michalis' Tavern», run by Mrs. Katina, is yet another excellent choice. The tavern is right on the square and offers a spectacular view of the ravine that unfolds before us. The best time to go there is at dusk. And finally, the «Filio», in a beautiful setting, with excellent food as well.
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few more restaurants, but the truth is that you can eat very well anywhere on Kythira.
I mustn't forget to mention the wonderful Myrtidia Monastery, which thousands of Christians visit every year—they say it’s miraculous!
Mirella Papapikonou, in collaboration with Katia Kissonergi, has completed the screenplay for the TV series «Seventeen Threads,» based on the novel by Panagiotis Dimakis, which will be directed by Sotiris Tsafoulias for Cosmote TV.
